To celebrate our first wedding anniversary (the international counterpart to our domestic anniversary trip), Rufio and I traveled back in time in the steamy and romantic cobblestoned and walled city of Cartagena de Indias, Colombia. Here’s our guide to enjoying a long weekend in Cartagena.

Cartagena de Indias is the jewel of the Caribbean coast of South America. It is a city whose lurid history – from an epicenter of the Spanish slave trade in the 17th-19th centuries to a hub for drug cartels in more recent years – feels at once far removed among throngs of revelers enjoying craft cocktails and strolling the night market, and yet ever-present in the architecture, the art, and the faces of the people who impart much of the charm of this reinvented city.

Day 1

Soak Up the Sun

There is plenty to see and do in Cartagena, but the Caribbean begs its visitors to take some time to relax. Our travels are often packed with one adventure after another, but for our anniversary we decided to take a more relaxed approach in order to spend time just enjoying each other’s company and reflecting on our journey together.

Take a cue from us, and begin your long weekend with a leisurely few hours basking in the burning sun. The most beautiful beaches lie just off the coast, but if you’re just looking to soak up the last few rays after you’ve landed and settled in, the beaches of Bocagrande or Castillogrande are a good spot to crack open your first Club Colombia cerveza.

Eat & Drink Like a Local

Once the sun goes down, Cartagena heats up. The lively Plaza de Trinidad is a great spot to begin your evening. There are several restaurants and cafés lining the square, including the popular Demente.

You can opt to dine on classic tapas in the restaurants, but with the selection of street food carts that begin to line the streets later in the evening, it’s great just to start the night enjoying a few crafted cocktails. Rufio did go a bit rogue, ordering a sweet and tangy mora (raspberry) flavored paleta, or gelato-like popsicle, from D’li Paleteria, available at a window open to the street.

We drank our way around the square, ending up on the upstairs balcony of Solar Bar & Food for a bird’s eye view of the drum lines, dancers, and other revelers who filled the square below. After a few rounds of cocktails and beers, the bottles sweating furiously in the heat of the night, we decided to take a break from the bar scene to explore the night market at Plaza de los Coches.

This is a square with a sordid past, where once humans were sold in the stifling Caribbean heat, instead of the novelty T-shirts and other ubiquitous souvenir items of today. On the weekends, locals and visitors amble through the market stalls, or enjoy live performances in front of the Torre del Reloj.

As the night grows later, it is time to begin sampling the food carts. A classic that can be found on many street corners is the arepa – ground maize dough, stuffed with chorizo and cheese, and topped with homemade hot sauces, guacamole, or sour cream. Other popular foods sold from carts lining the squares include empanadas, bocadillo con queso (cheese and guava snacks), bollos (buns of taro or yucca wrapped in banana leaf), fresh fruits and fruit juices, and many other Colombian late-night delicacies.

Day 2

Immerse in Art & History

The walled city begs to be explored during the daylight, but you’ll want to get an early start to beat the heat of the day. Begin your journey back in time walking along the 4 km of impenetrable stone wall surrounding the city. Peer out over the azul waters of the Caribbean Sea, where the 16th century cannons lining the wall are back-dropped by the 20th century high rises of Bocagrande.

Exit the wall when you reach the kaleidoscopic neighborhood of Getsmani. The absolute highlight of your day will be getting lost wandering the cobblestone alleys of this gritty neighborhood. The city walls and the abodes within are plastered with gorgeous murals, showcasing the work of Cartagena’s famed local artists.

You could probably spend hours here exploring and photographing the maze of colors and shapes, but Cartagena has more artistic value to offer. The city is obsessed with its literary prowess, a tradition spurred by its beloved author Gabriel García Márquez. Stop in to one of the city’s many bookshop-cafés, enjoy a cortado or mochaccino brewed with fresh Colombian beans, and curl up with a copy of one of the Nobel laureate’s greatest works. We loved Ábaco Libros y Café for its brick walls lined with books all the way to the ceiling.

As the city continues to awaken for the day, meander aimlessly through the many squares within the walled city, admiring the street vendors hawking vintage wares, art, music, fruit, hats, and much more.

Sunset Scenes

Watching the sunset at Café del Mar pops up on every Cartagena “must do” list, and for good reason – the location is positively prime for watching the sky turn amber over the cool turquoise waters. As with all popular tourist attractions, though, the place gets crowded quickly and the prices are high.

We returned to our hotel for a brief respite from the heat to shower and change into clothes that were not sweat-drenched; if we had a little more time to prepare before the sun started dipping toward the horizon, we would have likely purchased a bottle of wine from a local shop and found our own spot along the wall to enjoy the show. Since we were racing the clock, we begrudgingly asked the taxi to take us straight to Café del Mar, hoping to find a spot to sit and a glass of rosé before the sunk sank.

We were in luck, as there was one small table available towards the back of the patio. We didn’t have an unobstructed view of the sunset, but with one as spectacular as Cartagena’s, there really isn’t a bad seat to be had.

Day 3

Island Hopping

By far Cartagena’s best beaches are not along the coast, but a boat ride away in the Rosario Islands. The archipelago is one of Colombia’s most important national parks, and thanks to the protections offered by the park, the islands are the definition of paradise.

You can visit the islands in as little as a day trip from Cartagena, or spend a few days away from the sweltering heat of the city at one of the private accommodations. Options range from budget hostels to exclusive luxury resorts, so there is certainly something to fit your style and budget.The islands offer a pristine environment for snorkeling, diving, kayaking, sailing, or simply lounging on the picturesque white sand beaches. We arranged a day trip on short notice with Gente del Mar, the main resort on Isla Grande. A day pass afforded us pickup at our hotel, transfer to and from the island via speedboat, a welcome drink, lunch, access to beach chairs & towels, free use of kayaks, and absolutely idyllic white sandy beach views.

We spent a perfectly sunny day alternating between kayaking, snorkeling, and lounging on the beach with ice cold cervezas. Some weather rolled in just as we were departing, making for an interesting ride. I’m sure some passengers weren’t as thrilled as we were, but Rufio and I enjoyed belly laughs as the waves rocked the boat to and fro like a roller coaster!

Dinner & Dancing the Night Away

Nothing tastes better after a day basking in the Caribbean sun than a local favorite, a fresh and tangy ceviche. Find yourself a quaint rooftop restaurant within the walls like we did at Malagana Café and Bar, where we ordered tropical fruit-infused cocktails to wash it down, and watched the brilliant sun sink yet again over the horizon.

After dinner, enjoy Cuban cigars and an exquisite selection of rum at Cuba 1940, while you cool off from the heat of the night by dipping your feet in the courtyard pool. If you’re in the mood for a craft cocktail, drop by Alquimico to try one of their house-made, infused-spirit cocktails. The space, a renovated mansion and warehouse, is stunning, the bartenders are bona fide mixologists, and the spirits they craft are superb.

There is no other way to end your long weekend in Cartagena than salsa dancing the night away in a discoteca. One of the most popular among visitors is Club Havana, and the live bands and local dancing prowess here do not disappoint. If you’re feeling a little more adventurous, seek out some smaller and lesser known salsa and champeta clubs scattered throughout the surrounding Getsmani neighborhood, and dance the night away!

Have you spent a long weekend in Cartagena? Leave a comment below!

Sojourn Information

Stay: Hilton Cartagena

Eat and drink: Ábaco Libros y Café, Café del Mar, Demente, D’li Paleteria, Solar Bar & Food, Alqu í mico, Malagana Café and Bar

Sunbathe: Bocagrande, Castillogrande, Rosario Islands, Gente del Mar

Shopping and sights: Plaza de Trinidad, Plaza de los Coches, Getsmani neighborhood

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